Marble
Natural stone, made of calcium. Soft veining, no repeating pattern, a glow to the surface. Acid dulls it on contact. Needs sealing, and sealing doesn't stop the dulling.
The New Home Stone Guide
Nobody told you that. The builder handed you a manual for the garage door opener and nothing for the most expensive surface in the house, the one every drink, every pan, and every grocery bag lands on from now on.
Stone doesn't stay the way it looked on move-in day by itself. Marble picks up its first ring the first week. Granite's seal wears thin where you cook. Quartz remembers the one time a pan came off the burner and went straight down. None of that is a defect. It's what stone does when nobody's told you the rules.
This is the manual that should have been in the folder. What you have, how to keep it, what happens if you don't, and which parts are yours and which parts are ours.
One date runs the whole thing. We call it Day 0: your closing date on a new home, or the install date on a remodel. Write it down. It's the only number in this guide you have to remember.
Homeowner: tasks you do
Pro: tasks that are ours
Section 2
Every care decision in this guide depends on one answer. Four stones cover nearly every counter installed in the last couple of decades, and two of them look almost identical and need opposite care.
Natural stone, made of calcium. Soft veining, no repeating pattern, a glow to the surface. Acid dulls it on contact. Needs sealing, and sealing doesn't stop the dulling.
Natural stone, hard and dense. Speckles, flecks, visible grains, no repeating pattern. Acid doesn't dull it. Oil and grease get into it if it's unsealed. Some granite barely absorbs anything at all.
Natural stone that looks like marble and is sold as tougher than granite. True quartzite is. A lot of what's sold as quartzite is a marble-family stone that etches like marble. The lemon test tells you which you have.
Not a stone. Crushed stone in factory resin. The pattern repeats, the color is uniform, and it never needs sealing. Its weak spot is the resin: heat and harsh chemicals mark it.
The paper. Fabricator invoice, builder spec, slab tag. If it says the stone name, that's your answer, with one exception: "quartzite" on paper isn't always quartzite in the kitchen.
The pattern. Photograph one spot. Look for that exact pattern elsewhere on the counter. If you find it, it was printed. You have quartz. Natural stone never repeats.
The lemon. One drop of lemon juice on a hidden spot: under an overhang lip, behind the faucet, inside a cabinet cutout. Wait a few minutes, rinse, dry. If that spot went dull or lighter, the stone is calcium-based and it's marble, whatever the paperwork says. If nothing changed, it's granite or true quartzite. Never do this on the open counter. The dull spot is permanent until it's re-polished.
Section 3
Most stone care is what you do every day, and it's simple. Gentle cleaner, soft cloth, fast spill response, and a few things between the stone and the life happening on top of it.
Homeowner: all of it. This is the part that's entirely yours.
Section 4
This is the fifteen minutes that tells you more than any schedule. Sealer is an invisible barrier in the pores of natural stone. It doesn't make stone stain-proof. It buys you time to clean up. Over time it wears, and the stone will tell you when.
Still the same color, water was beaded on top: the seal is working. You're done until the next checkpoint.
The stone darkened where the water sat: it's absorbing. Time to reseal.
Quartz: skip this. It doesn't absorb and it never gets sealed.
Sealing is something you can do yourself. It's also something we do on every visit, and the difference isn't the product, it's the application: prep, dry time, knowing when the stone is actually taking sealer, and getting the excess off before it hazes. If you'd rather we handle it, that's what the maintenance visits are.
Homeowner: the water test, and resealing if you want to
Pro: resealing done for you, and fixing a seal job that hazed or went on patchy
Section 5
Day 0 is your closing date or your install date. Everything below counts forward from it. The markers are checkpoints, not orders: you reseal when the water test fails, not because a date came up. One calendar per stone. Find yours.
The densest calendar of the four, because marble absorbs the most and etches on contact. Sealing every three to six months is the trade's rule of thumb; the water test decides the actual date.
Confirm with your builder or fabricator that the top was sealed at install. Most are. Some aren't. Start the coaster habit today.
Homeowner
Look at the high-use zones in low, angled light. Any rings or dull patches already? That's etching, and it tells you where the acids are landing.
Homeowner
Water test. If it darkens, reseal. If it beads, you're good until Day 180.
Homeowner: test, and reseal if it fails
Same water test, same rule. Marble that fails at every checkpoint is a porous slab or a hard-working kitchen. Either way, the test is doing its job.
Homeowner
First-year assessment. We look at the whole top: seal condition, etching, wear at the sink and stove, edges. Light etching gets re-polished. The top gets sealed. You get a read on how your kitchen treats your marble, and the calendar resets.
Pro
Spaced further apart. These absorb less and don't etch (true quartzite; marble-family "quartzite" follows the marble calendar). Sealing every six to twelve months is the trade's rule of thumb; the water test decides, and some dense granite never fails it.
Confirm it was sealed at install. Wipe oil up the same day it lands, starting now.
Homeowner
Look at the zone around the stove in angled light. Any dark patch that doesn't dry out is oil getting in, and it means the seal is thin there.
Homeowner
First water test. If it darkens, reseal. If it beads, you're good until Day 365. If your granite beads every time, it may never need sealing at all, and sealing it anyway is what causes haze.
Homeowner: test, and reseal if it fails
First-year assessment. Seal condition, finish wear at the sink and stove, chips on edges, any set-in stain from the year. Worn finish gets re-polished. Chips get filled. The top gets sealed if it's taking sealer. The calendar resets.
Pro
Almost entirely yours. No sealing, ever. No water test. The calendar is about heat and chemicals, not absorption.
Trivets out. That's the whole setup. Read the section on what happens to quartz so nobody sets a pan down on Day 3.
Homeowner
Check the zone by the stove and anywhere a hot appliance lives. Any dull or discolored patch is resin damage, and catching it early matters.
Homeowner
First-year look-over: scratches, heat marks, chips. What polishes out gets polished. Nothing gets sealed.
Pro
The calendar repeats. Same checkpoints, same rule, and the Day 365 visit becomes the yearly one. That's the maintenance program: the pro markers on this page, done for you, on your stone's clock.
Tell us your stone and your Day 0. We turn these markers into real dates and text you at each one with the one thing to do that day. Shareable with whoever else lives with the counters.
Set up my stone calendarSection 6
Honest answers, one per task. Some of these you can live with. Some of them turn a homeowner task into a job for us. None of them are the end of the counter.
Every glass of wine, every lime, every soda leaves an etch where it sat. Nothing dramatic on day one. Rings by the end of the month. A dull patch wherever drinks live by the end of the year.
Lighter, cloudy rings with no color, that don't wipe off and feel slightly different under a fingertip.
Pro: mechanical re-polish. There is no homeowner fix for an etch.
A single ring is a spot job on one visit. A top covered in them is the whole surface re-honed in steps and re-polished, and the kitchen is out of commission while it's done.
The seal wears off in the high-use zones first. Oil, grease, and cosmetics start getting into the pores instead of sitting on top. The stone doesn't look different until it does.
A dark patch by the stove that never dries out. A ring under the olive oil bottle. A shadow around the sink.
Pro: draw the stain out, then reseal the area
Fresh oil on sealed stone that's blotted quickly usually never becomes a stain. Set-in oil on unsealed light stone is extraction, sometimes more than one round, and re-sealing after. Skipped resealing turns a fifteen-minute test into a service visit.
An acidic all-purpose spray does to marble across the whole top what a lemon does in one spot. On granite, harsh chemicals strip sealer and abrasive pads scratch the polish. On quartz, bleach and degreasers attack the resin.
A top that's gone flat everywhere. Hazy, no reflection, "old" before its time.
Pro: the whole surface, re-honed and re-polished
This is the one that moves a top from "a couple of spots" to "the entire kitchen." The fix is the same process either way; the difference is how much of the counter it covers and how long you're cooking somewhere else.
The resin marks or discolors where the heat sat. Sometimes it's a light dull patch. Sometimes it's a yellow-brown scorch.
A pan-shaped or ring-shaped patch near the stove that no cleaner changes.
Pro: resin polishing. Light marks often come out. Deep scorch is reduced, not always removed.
This is the one task on the list where "I'll fix it later" can become "it's permanent." Trivets are the entire quartz care routine.
Grit under the pot works like sandpaper. Fine scratches build up in the zones you use most until the polish stops reflecting.
A dull path between the sink and the stove. Fine lines you can see in raking light.
Pro: re-polish the worn zone to match the rest
Slow, cumulative, and easy to prevent. It's usually one of several things going on by the time a top reads as "tired."
Minerals in the water stay behind as a film. Layer on layer, it dulls the reflection and can look like a stain.
White spots and streaks around the faucet and on the island where glasses sat.
Homeowner: usually. A stone-safe cleaner and a dry buff take off most of it.
Pro: heavy buildup that's bonded to the finish
The cheapest habit on the page: dry the counter. Skipped long enough, it's the one that makes people think their granite has "stained" when it hasn't.
Section 7
The single most common mix-up in stone care, and the reason people buy the wrong product. They look similar from across the room. They're opposites.
Something got into the stone. It has color: coffee brown, wine red, oil gray, rust orange. It looks darker than the stone around it. It's drawn back out with chemistry matched to the stain and the stone.
Something took polish off the stone. It has no color: a dull, lighter, cloudy mark, usually a ring. Nothing was added, so nothing can be cleaned out. The surface is rebuilt mechanically.
Two rules that save counters: never put anything on a mark until you know which one it is, and never reach for the store's "marble polish" for either. It's a topper. The mark is still under it.
Homeowner: blot fresh spills, then stop
Pro: anything that's set in, and every etch
Section 8
Section 9
Everything in Section 3 is yours. The water test is yours. Sealing can be yours. The line is anything that's mechanical or irreversible:
Send a photo. You'll see your own counter with the damage gone, and what we'd do to make the photo real, before anyone comes out.
Pro: all of the above
Set up your calendar and we'll text you at every checkpoint. Or send a photo of something that's already happened and see it fixed.
Set up my stone calendar See YOUR Counters Restored